VIRGINIA WINE COUNTRY: From Jefferson’s Dream to Modern Renaissance

Among the first wines ever produced in America were those made by Jamestown colonists in 1607 thin, musky concoctions pressed from wild scuppernong grapes. The results were so disappointing that, by 1619, the Virginia Company sent French vine cuttings and eight French winemakers to the struggling settlement, hoping to establish proper vineyards in the New World. That same year, the Virginia House of Burgesses passed a law requiring each colonist to plant at least ten grapevines.

But even French know-how could not overcome the region’s fungal diseases, insect pests, and unpredictable weather. The vines withered, and so did Virginia’s first dreams of fine wine.

Jefferson’s Vision, Unfulfilled

Two centuries later, Thomas Jefferson revived that dream with characteristic zeal. After touring the vineyards of France and Italy in 1787, he returned to Monticello with detailed notes and high hopes. In 1807 he planted two dozen varieties of European and native grapes, carefully recording each step in the process. Yet his optimism could not outlast Virginia’s humidity the vines succumbed once more to disease before producing a single harvest.

“I expect to be gratified with the great desideratum of making at home a good wine,” Jefferson wrote to a friend in 1816. It would take another 150 years for his wish to come true.

A New Beginning

The modern era of Virginia winemaking began in the 1970s, when vintners such as Meredyth and Farfelu pioneered the use of French-American hybrid grapes sturdy crosses like seyval blanc, vidal blanc, and Maréchal Foch that could survive the local climate. Before long, however, research into better vineyard sites and trellising systems allowed European vinifera grapes chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and riesling to flourish once again.

In 1976, Barboursville Vineyards near Charlottesville planted the state’s first significant commercial chardonnay, signaling a turning point. By the early 1980s, Virginia was being hailed as one of the East Coast’s most dynamic wine regions its chardonnays crisp and elegant, its cabernets deep with smoky spice. Vineyard acreage increased 420 percent between 1979 and 1986.

The Land and the Grapes

Today, Virginia’s vineyards stretch across more than 4,000 acres and six official viticultural regions, from the breezy Eastern Shore to the mountain-ringed Shenandoah Valley. The state’s diverse soils ranging from sandy loam to rich red clay pair with a challenging continental climate to create wines of character and complexity.

In winter, the cold can split vine trunks; in summer, humidity brings mildew and rot. Yet modern vineyard management has turned adversity into advantage. The struggle against the elements yields wines of remarkable tension and balance proof that beauty often thrives in difficulty.

Leading grapes include:

Chardonnay – the state’s signature white, ranging from mineral and citrusy to rich and buttery.

Viognier – the rising star; lush and perfumed with apricot and honeysuckle, often compared to its Rhône Valley counterpart.

Cabernet Franc – a standout red, producing lean, smoky wines with herbal spice.

Norton - Virginia’s own native cross, yielding deep, zinfandel-like reds that speak of history and place.

The Norton Revival

No story of Virginia wine is complete without the Norton grape, first propagated in Richmond in 1835 by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton. This hardy American cross thrived where others failed and became the backbone of the 19th-century wine known as Virginia Claret.

After nearly disappearing during Prohibition, Norton was resurrected by Horton Vineyards in 1991. Today, Horton’s Norton a robust, spicy red with notes of blackberry and clove pays homage to the grape’s past while proving its continued potential in Virginia’s terroir.

A Community of Craft

Most of Virginia’s more than 300 wineries remain small, family-run enterprises. Many owners are self-taught winemakers former professors, engineers, bankers, and even Marines who traded city life for the rhythm of the vineyard. Larger estates such as Prince Michel, Barboursville, and Chateau Morrisette add a touch of European polish, while countless boutique producers continue to define the region’s identity through experimentation and passion.

Southern hospitality runs deep here. Nearly every winery welcomes visitors for tours, tastings, and festivals. At The Williamsburg Winery, you can sample the easy-drinking Governor’s White, a blend of riesling, vidal blanc, and muscat. In the Blue Ridge foothills, Linden Vineyards offers sweeping mountain views and elegantly restrained wines that have earned national acclaim.

Visiting Virginia Wine Country

Virginia’s wine country is not one place but many. To the west, the Shenandoah Valley offers scenic drives and crisp rieslings framed by misty mountains. Near Charlottesville, the Monticello Wine Trail pays tribute to Jefferson’s legacy with standout producers such as Barboursville, Horton, and Oakencroft. In the north, close to Washington, D.C., charming country inns and fine dining await most notably at the famed Inn at Little Washington, a Michelin three-star restaurant just a short drive from the vineyards.

For travelers, the Virginia Wine Marketing Program provides maps, guides, and festival listings for every region (P.O. Box 1163, Richmond, VA 23218; virginiawine.org).

A Legacy Fulfilled

After four centuries of trial, failure, and persistence, Virginia has become one of America’s most distinctive wine regions a testament to its vintners’ stubborn optimism and Jefferson’s enduring dream. The wines of Virginia are not copies of Bordeaux or Burgundy; they are uniquely their own graceful, earthy, and quietly confident, much like the land and people who make them.

“Good wine is a necessity of life for me,” Jefferson once declared.

Two hundred years later, Virginia finally agrees.